Sagada: Walls of the Dead
by The dead are hung like ornaments atop mountainside walls.
When one dies, a person might imagine being surrounded by loved ones and friends, and perhaps being buried in the ground. In my case, I’d like to be cremated and have my ashes scattered in Sedona. But throughout many countries, the practice of burial has taken on many different meanings.
In Sagada, Luzon, the loved ones of the dead, place the deceased in crevasses high atop mountainsides. For nearly two thousand years, this practice has taken place. While it may seem bizarre to tourists (or outsiders), the burial of the dead is considered to be a sacred honor.
Coffins are usually made from hollowed out logs. The lids are then carved with symbols, such as a lizard. Since the coffins are usually small, the bodies are forced within, usually breaking bones in the process. The bodies are usually laid to rest without offerings. Though occasionally, chairs have been tied to the coffins for the deceased to have, as well as jars with food or beverages.
Bodies from over 500 years ago contained mummies that were in the fetal position. Their bodies had been rubbed with herbs and smoked during funerary rites. More than 20 caves in Luzon contain such coffins, and while the practice is rare in the 21st century, some are still honored with his funerary rite.
Sagada natives do not believe in burying their dead, as they feel that the spirits should be able to roam freely. By burying a soul in the ground, one hinders the spirit. Strangely enough, during the funeral procession, the natives are apt to make loud noises, and shake the coffin. They also make erratic movements on the way to the caves in order to confuse the spirit. By doing so, it will be unable to find its way back to the village.
Photo courtesy of Alfred Cooper
Once the coffin is taken to its final resting place, a statue of the deceased is placed near the coffin. It is almost a surreal experience seeing the rows of coffins along the mountain walls. Unfortunately, it has been a common practice for some tourists to take souvenirs (in the likes of bones); which is quite unconscionable. Though one can make the trek, some Sagada natives are leery of outsiders for fear that their ancestors’ remains will be removed.
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Post CommentPatrick Bernauw
On March 22, 2009 at 4:26 am
Fascinating article & pictures!… Hadn’t heard of it… until now!
Melody SJAL
On March 22, 2009 at 4:49 am
This is definitely true, have heard about it over the radio, though I have not been to Sagada yet.
Glynis Smy
On March 22, 2009 at 8:48 am
What a fascinating article, I have learned something new, thanks.
R J Evans
On March 22, 2009 at 1:16 pm
Very interesting… what a wonderfully strange world we inhabit!
R J Evans
On March 22, 2009 at 1:53 pm
Oh I blogged it too!
http://www.webphemera.com/2009/03/sagada-walls-of-dead.html
Thanks!
mysticdave
On March 22, 2009 at 3:35 pm
very interesting:)
papaleng
On March 22, 2009 at 7:46 pm
nice article and well-researched.I’ve seen this place.
thestickman
On March 27, 2009 at 11:47 am
wow! :-O
-thestickman
Lauren Axelrod
On March 30, 2009 at 8:54 am
How bizarre! What an interesting way to live on, be one with the mountains.
nobert soloria bermosa
On April 4, 2009 at 10:47 pm
the place is just a few scores of kilometer away from my place, it’s actually located in the Mt.Province(a province in Northern Luzon, Philippines and it’s a major tourist attraction in the area.
Debra.
On April 8, 2009 at 3:04 pm
I’ve heard much about this place. Great article.
shellcrafter
On May 15, 2009 at 5:08 pm
Wow. I hope to be cremated myself but it is amazing what other parts of the world will do for their deceased loved ones.
Nikhilnair
On June 21, 2009 at 6:33 pm
wow!
very interesting article.. learned something new.
Paula Brehm
On July 15, 2009 at 12:35 pm
This is quite interesting. How did you come to write on this topic? It’s very well written.
Andrew Davies
On August 13, 2009 at 11:51 am
Neat article, kind of creepy to think that people would want to take the bones of humans for their own pleasure.
elphaba
On October 14, 2009 at 9:49 pm
Love the pictures. I was in Sagada last May 2009. I talked to some locals about the practice. They said this is rarely done nowadays. The last person they buried in a hanging coffin was probably 3 years ago if I remember it right. He was really old and wanted to be interned that way. Otherwise, they do it the “conventional” way now, which is to bury the dead underground. Sagada is a must-see though. The people there are so warm and accommodating. I definitely loved it. It’s too bad its surrounding areas were hit by typhoon just recently. I hope it gets better soon.