Ad Gefrid: Saxon Capital

It’s hard to imagine that a deserted field near Wooler in Northumberland was the capital of England at one time. Northumbria was the most powerful and influential of the seven Anglo-Saxon kingdoms during the first half of the 7th Century. Three Northumbrian kings in succession, Edwin, Oswald and Oswy were named as Bretwalda, Britain Ruler or High King of England.

Edwin, who became King of Northumbria in 616, built his royal palace and township at Ad Gefrid under Yeaverling Bell on the north side of the Cheviot Hills. Archaeologists and historians have argued that this spot, which is only marked by a simple concrete plaque in a neighbouring lay-by could be the most important Anglo-Saxon site in England.

Plans are now in place to allow public access over the field near the River Glen, possibly the site of one of King Arthur’’s battles, provide a series of information boards and indicate the positions of the various buildings that made up the township.

“We think there is a fantastic new way to present our heritage on what is an incredibly important site,” said Chris Burgess, archaeologist with Northumberland County Council. “It was the seat of royal power for the best part of 100 years and is one of the sites of the birth of Christianity in the North of England and yet few people know that it exists or have any concept of how important it is.”

Edwin had sought refuge with Redwald. King of East Anglia before gaining his throne at the Battle of the River Idle. He married Princess Ethelburga of Kent on the condition that her chaplain and confessor, Paulinus accompanied her to Northumbria.
St Paulinus spent 36 days preaching the Christian faith and baptising the Northumbrians, including King Edwin in the River Glen.

Northumbria was attacked by a coalition of forces led by King Penda of Mercia and King Cadwallon of Wales. Edwin marched his army south and was defeated and killed at the Battle of Hatfield Chase in 633.

Cadwallon and his Welsh Army rampaged across Northumbria during the next 12 months. There is clear archaeological evidence that Ad Gefrid was razed to the ground during this period.

Excavations have revealed scorch marks at the base of the buildings that are consistent with people piling brushwood against the timbers and igniting it.

“This disaster is surely to be seen as a result of a calculated act of hostility,” said archaeologist Brian Hope-Taylor. “Overall the evidence points to a desperate last stand by the defenders who were loyal to the township and all it stood for.”

Edwin’s nephew, Oswald was to defeat and kill Cadwallon the following year at the Battle of Heavenfield, near Hexham.

Oswald was to rebuild the power of Northumbria and move the capital back to Bamburgh overlooking the North Sea.

Ad Gefrid is mentioned by St Bede, but the actually site remained lost until a set of aerial photographs were taken during the exceptionally dry summer of 1949.

Brian Hop-Taylor began his excavations in the early 1950s, using the aerial photographs to plot the foundations. He started to piece together the buildings and the history of the township.

The Angles had built a great hall for ceremonies, feasting, drinking and carousing around 627.

He discovered what he believes to have been the spot where the Witan or Great Council held their meetings and Edwin spoke to his warriors and people.

It was a triangular tiered grandstand or theatre, which faced a raised platform with, screens to the rear and sides.
The is the great enclosure which is believed to predate Ad Gefrid. It was possibly constructed in Roman or even prehistoric times.

It may have used as a stockade for enclosing the cattle, sheep and horses that people in the surrounding areas paid as tribute or for keeping the Royal herds and flocks. Alternatively the great enclosure may have been used for large-scale communal ceremonies.

Edwin ruled his vast kingdom from Ad Gefrid. Northumbria stretched between the Rivers Humber and Forth and right across the country at its greatest extent.

Ad Gefrid is on the A697 road, running west from Wooler, which joins the B6351 road to Yeaverling Bell at Akend.